Glamourous and ramshackle jewelry by La Tonkinoise a Paris.

La Tonkinoise a Paris

I am delighted to have found La Tonkinoise a Paris:  a brand of delicate up-cycled jewelry.  Created with an arts and crafts approach, it's designer makes use of vintage rings, bracelets, necklaces and watches that she finds in Paris flea markets.  Each piece is hand-made to create unique items that mix together "glamourous and ramshackle, rough and luxurious, rock 'n roll and poetic".

By recycling discarded jewelry, La Tonkinoise's designer has brought to life rejected items to create modern individual pieces with a story to tell.

La Tonkinoise a Paris

La Tonkinoise a Paris

La Tonkinoise a Paris

La Tonkinoise a Paris

The name La Tonkinoise is taken from a Josephine Baker song of the same name.  Follow the link to hear this beautiful song ... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vlcW28ZUxFg

Liberty's festive wreaths

Beautiful dried Hydrangea wreaths at Liberty, London.
A stunning alternative to traditional Holly and Spruce.
Image by Re-Design for Life

Fisk - Copenhagen

Fisk - Copenhagen
Image by Re-Design for Life

I came across this wonderful shop whilst wandering around the narrow streets of Copenhagen.  It's a combination of a cafe, fair trade shop and vintage boutique all brought together in a relaxed, stylish environment that is synonymous with Copenhagan.

Upstairs, classic Danish chairs and coffee tables sit amongst sustainable and fair trade products including toys, home-wares, food and eco balloons!  Downstairs there is a collection of re-designed vintage clothing - SKIFt - for men and women, together with vintage shoes, bags and jewellery. 

All proceeds from the shop help fund the work of DanChurchAid in an effort to overcome poverty and suffering in developing countries.

Fisk can be found at Sankt Peders Straede 1, Kobenhavn.

Fisk - Copenhagen
Image by Re-Design for Life

Fisk - Copenhagen
Image by Re-Design for Life

Fisk - Copenhagen
Image by Re-Design for Life

(It's opposite the university).

My favourite this week comes From Somewhere

From Somewhere
AW10/11 Collection

I am loving this top from sustainable fashion label From Somewhere.  The mix of colours and textures shows a clever design eye.  Created by up-cycling surplus fabrics from the high-end fashion and textile industry.  As From Somewhere says "From waste to want".  I want.  I want.  I want.

Precious pleating by Felicity Brown

 Can't believe I haven't yet mentioned Felicity Brown.

I was wandering around Liberty's yesterday when I noticed a rail of stunning dresses, created in ruffled layers of hand-dyed, pleated silk. I instantly recognised the dresses from Felicity Brown's debut collection.  I'd seen pieces from this collection at London Fashion Week back in September, where I was captivated by the breath-taking beauty of each piece within this small couture collection.  All of the dresses are hand-made, hand-dyed and hand-printed using precious silks.

I am totally in awe of Felicity Brown's creative talent.  So sorry it's taken me so long to share this with you.

Felicity Brown
Autumn Winter 2010

Felicity Brown
Autumn Winter 2010

Felicity Brown
Autumn Winter 2010

Felicity Brown
Spring Summer 2011

Felicity Brown
Spring Summer 2011

He is superman - Yang Du

Yang Du
Spring Summer 2011
NEWGEN at London Fashion Week
Image by Re-Design for Life

Yang Du's spring summer 2011 collection - He is superman - is inspired by the toys and games of her childhood.  The expressive emotions of Superman, Batman and Astroboy play leading roles in the stories Du creates through each design within the collection.  Inspiration is also drawn from the Korean Toy Museum and it's collection of retro and stuck-together 'mutant' toys.

The collection is a riot of bold colour, surreal images and over-sized shapes constructed in panelled jersey, patchwork and digital prints.  All is brought together to create humorous yet sexy designs.  It's no wonder fans of her designs include Marina (and the Diamonds), Paloma Faith and Daisy Lowe.

There is a real sense of fun about Yang's work that I love.  I was also bowled over by her creative exuberance and serious professionalism.  A real inspiration.  I have a feeling we'll be seeing a lot more of Yang Du and her surreal take on fashion.

Image by permission of Yang Du

Image by permission of Yang Du

Image by permission of Yang Du

Estethica at London Fashion Week

What a day!  My head is buzzing. I am so excited after visiting Estethica today.  Nothing to do with the champagne brunch (well maybe a little).  No, it's all down to the creativity, passion and enthusiasm from everyone at the exhibition.  More to come on each designer and their new collections in a later post.  In the meantime here's a taster:

Ada Zanditon
Spring Summer 2011 collection
High-end luxury women's ready-to-wear.
Ethically produced, organic, recycled.

Makepiece
Spring Summer 2011 collection
Desirable design knitwear - from sheep to chic!
Local community production, organic & natural fibres.

Lost Property of London
Spring Summer 2011
Fair-trade certified products, ethically produced, recycled.

Issi
Spring Summer 2011
Art-Eco fashion brand.  Local community produced, up-cycled

Maxjenny
Spring Summer 2011
Wearable art - jackets produced from re-cycled plastic bottles
Ethically produced, organic, recycled, up-cycled

Nina Dolcetti
Spring Summer 2011
Designer shoes created to the highest standards of production and ethics
Ethically produced, local community production, recycled, vegetable tanned leather

Suno - SS11 at New York Fashion Week

I've just spent an hour or so outfit building for Autumn Winter - can't wait to start layering all those lovely textures together - long floor sweeping silk skirts with chunky knits, metallic jacquards with - I'm not sure what yet.  Delicate vintage lace with my 1980's shearling flying jacket.

Then I see Suno's Spring Summer '11 collection, which makes me yearn to wear light fabrics, fresh colours, bare legs with those amazing printed wedge sandals.

Suno - Spring Summer 2011 Collection
All collection images via Style.com

Suno garments are artisanally produced in small workshops in Kenya.

British Fashion Council - Emerging Talent Award

In a season of camel coats, camel trousers and general minimal beige-ness, it's a welcome relief to read that the British Fashion Council has nominated the following designers for it's 2010 Emerging Talent Award.

Michael van der Ham
Autumn Winter 2010
Image byMorgan O'Donovan

Michael van der Ham - a favourite of mine - who has a talent for combining mismatched textures, prints and colours to create beautiful silhouettes.

Mary Katrantzou
Autumn Winter 2010
Image by Billa Baldwin

Mary Katrantzou, who has made an incredible impact with her bold graphics and industrial jewellery.

Meadham Kirchhoff
Autumn Winter 2010
Image by Morgan O'Donovan

Meadham Kirchoff, who created a flurry of excitment amongst fashion media with their AW10 collection designed for uncompromising, aware and individual women.


I look forward to seeing their new collections at London Fashion Week ... I'll keep you posted.

Avoiding the rain in style - Christopher Raeburn

Having just spent four days in Copenhagen I have returned to England inspired.  Inspired to have cheek bone implants.  Inspired to have my legs stretched.  Inspired to ride my bike in the pouring rain while maintaining an air of stylish confidence.

On my first afternoon in the city there was an almighty down pour. As I scurried along with my shoulders hunched over, spluttering as I fought with my umbrella, the cycle path along side me was busy with Copenhageners pedalling – through the torrential rain - with an effortless sartorial style. Meanwhile, as my double denim outfit became rain-soaked, heavy and crumpled, I cursed myself for not being a practical packer.

Of course the perfect thing to have taken would have been one of Christopher Raeburn's Parachute Parkas. 

Christopher Raeburn - Autumn Winter 2010
Cropped Parachute Parka - with parachute scrunch bag.

Christopher Raeburn - AW10 Collection
Pop-Out Parka

I’ve always admired Christopher Raeburn’s work.  His innovative use of sustainable fabrics, his attention to detail and superb cut ensure his collections offer premium quality – as well as functionality and a sense of fun. 

Raeburn has received New Generation sponsorship to show his SS11 collection during London Fashion Week.  His inspirations for next season are dazzle camouflage, adaptability and the great outdoors.  I can’t wait.

Maison Martin Margiela at Somerset House

Image by Re-Design for Life.

Finally I made it to Somerset House to see the Maison Martin Margiela exhibition.  I followed the  iconic Tabi footprints, which led me into a bright white space. Here, I found a Maison Martin Margiela group portrait, cut from white Styrofoam  Margiela wanting to maintain his anonymity is not included in the portrait. A white board explained the familar numbers that became the respected (non) label for Margiela's collections.

In the following space a huge screen presented the Maison's 20th anniversary show. Two decades of influential fashion concepts and key pieces were re-visited before me on film.  I was captivated.  Tearing myself away, I walked up to a canvas trompe l"oeil printed curtain, which gave the illusion of a large empty room.  Once through the curtain, I entered a white-washed room showing concepts and garments from 20 year's of Margiela collections.

One of which was the 1996 Spring-Summer Trompe L'Oeil collection in which simple garment shapes were cut in soft, fluid fabrics.  Each piece is then printed with a photograph of another completely different garment.  A cardigan, for example, is printed with a safari jacket.  A dress with a photographic print of the inside of a 1960's cocktail dress.  A 'chesterfield' sofa effect is printed onto a leather jacket.  The colour palette - reminiscent of old photographs -  is kept to black, white, sepia and brown tints.

Other concepts included a dress with it's hemline lifted and stitched to one shoulder revealing a slip dress made from vintage lace slips.  A satin halter dress with it's skirt made from two different skirts, one stitched onto the other.  A second-hand man's suit jacket, painted over with silver paint.  Blouses and jackets with their sleeves repositioned to the front.  A sleeveless woollen top with visible, frayed lining at the neck, armholes and seams.  A dress made from lining fabric with visible darts on the outside.  A jacket made from a man's jacket sleeves.  Another jacket made with the sleeves switched and sewn back to front, so that the jacket can be worn with the fastening at the back.  A patchwork vest made from stitched interfacings.  A halter neck top made from second hand gloves...

Oh!  How I have been inspired by Maison Martin Margiela over the years.  The master of de-construction - reinterpreting how a garment should be worn by taking it apart and recreating every piece with skillfully crafted precision.

Dark, sensual and sustainable - Minna AW10

Minna AW10 Collection

Image by permission of Minna Hepburn

Inspired by the classic 1950's film noir period, designer Minna Hepburn has moved away from her usual soft colours and vintage cream lace to create a sophisticated collection in a palette of black and hand-dyed shades of grey. The collection still maintains Minna's signature quirky details and plenty of lace, only much darker.

Minna has used luxurious fabrics such as Scottish lace, Hemp/silk, organic wool, vintage textiles and leather off-cuts to create sensual dresses with an urban edge. Hand embellishment adds exquisite and unexpected detailing to the collection.

With this new design direction, Minna is one of my favourite 'Eco' fashion collections for AW10.

Minna AW10 Collection

Image by permission of Minna Hepburn

Minna AW10 Collection

Image by permission of Minna Hepburn

Minna AW10 Collection

Image by permission of Minna Hepburn

Awamaki Lab - Fashion Mentorship opportunity

Image with permission from Awamaki Lab

There are many designers – myself included – who have taken inspiration from the traditional textiles of Peru. For me, it’s the vibrant hues woven together to create stunning colour combinations and patterns that I have been drawn to, which in turn has created a fascination for me with Peru itself. The indigenous people, their culture and the country’s landscape.

So imagine my excitement when I came across Awamaki Lab, a fashion mentorship program that works in conjunction with Awamaki, a Peruvian NGO that runs a textile revitalization project to help impoverished Quechua women weavers improve their skills, gain financial independence and secure a reliable source of income.

Image with permission from Awamaki Lab

Awamaki Lab explores sustainability, ethical sourcing and product innovation. The program – lasting three months - fosters the cross-cultural partnership between the designers and Awamaki’s indigenous weavers.

Image with permission from Awamaki Lab

The designers also receive mentorship from leaders in the ethical design sector. Tara St. James, owner and creative director of New York label Study is Awamaki Lab’s first Design Mentor. Tara is a talented pioneer of ethical fashion – I’ve previously written about her design collective on this blog.

Image with permission from Awamaki Lab

Awamaki Lab offers an unparalleled opportunity for selected designer participants to develop a capsule collection in the serene environment of Ollantaytambo, Peru. Through the process, designers hone their artistic skills and lend a modern perspective to Awamaki’s range of products. This will improve the organization’s marketability and help to stimulate economic growth in the isolated, rural communities where Awamaki works.

Program dates for Awamaki Lab design mentorship program begin August 2010. Full details can be found at www.awamaki.org/awamaki-lab/

Le Marais and Marni - SS2010 inspiration

Natural raffia bag with citrus and floral embroidery

Image by Redesign for Life

Spot raffia bag and 1930's bakerlite earrings and bangles

Image by Redesign for LIfe

Embroidered raffia bag and 1950's painted flower brooches

Image by Redesign for Life

I came across these images yesterday whilst having a spring clean on my computer. I'd taken them one evening as I was walking through Paris's Le Marais district. It's a window display from a vintage shop that specialises in interiors and accessories. I can't remember the name but it's on Rue des Francs Bourgeois.

The whole display has a 1950's Latino Carmen Miranda feel to it, don't you think? I love the vintage raffia bag embroidered in vibrant citrus colours. Such a statement! Those chunky bangles are original 1930's bakerlite. Pile 'em on and clash those colours. Ah! but it's the huge bauble earrings that are to die for! Wear these and you'll be so on trend this summer.

Not sure? Then check out Marni's SS2010 collection...

Vibrant citrus colours at Marni SS2010

Image via Style.com

Large drop earrings at Marni SS2010

Image via Style.com

Vintage indulgence - Secret Siren

Secret Siren - Vintage clothes and accessories

I gasped with shock when my friends R&A told me that they planned to sell some of their vintage clothes collection. You see their collection isn’t just the contents of a few tatty cardboard boxes gathering dust in their loft. Oh No! This is an enviable collection of vintage finds accumulated over years of – as they put it – arduous haggling, smooth talking and bare faced cheek. It’s a stunning collection of high-end vintage clothing and accessories from the 1920’s to the 1980’s – from ‘Pure Vintage’ to ‘Future Vintage’, from ‘Sunday Best’ to ‘Red Carpet’ dressing. It’s a collection filled with memories of their glamorous parties and flamboyant club nights. It’s a collection of exquisite vintage pieces to get you looked over rather than overlooked.

You can find the full collection on Secret Siren's website. It’s time to indulge…

Secret Siren

Secret Siren

Secret Siren

Secret Siren

Secret Siren

Secret Siren - Vintage clothes and accessories